EP 55: Kai Lightner
February 15, 2021
Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music. You can learn more about Kai at kai-lightner.com
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out more episodes with Kai:
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner (Feb 16, 2024)
Support the Podcast:
Support Climbing for Change:
donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch
Climbing for Change:
Kai’s Favorite Music:
‘King of Rock’ by Run-DMC (Kai’s competition song)
‘Dirt of Your Shoulder’ by Jay-Z
Quotes:
“No matter how hard it gets, stick your chest out, keep your head up, and handle it.” – Tupac Shakur
“Never mind what haters say, ignore them till they fade away.” – T.I. (aka Clifford Joseph Harris, Jr.)
Articles:
'Reflections on My Climbing Journey' - Kai’s blog
Videos:
‘Empath’ 5.15a FA by Carlo Traversi
‘Empath’ 5.15a Repeats by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods
Routes Mentioned:
‘Era Vella’ 5.14d, Margalef, Spain
‘Empath’ 5.15a, Lake Tahoe, CA
Kai’s Links:
Nuggets:
2:53 – Tension boarding, creativity in climbing, and Kai’s first experience with hangboarding
6:55 – Kai’s go-to training music
8:01 – Halloween costumes, and the Tupac and T.I. quotes Kai shared in his graduation speech
10:39 – The Olympics, Kai’s early role models, Chris Brown’s music, and Kai’s mom
11:24 – Growing up climbing everything, the flagpole story, and Kai’s first day in a climbing gym
16:16 – Kai’s first climbing gym, climbing on the same route to prepare for nationals for five years, and driving 6 hours to get coaching
19:13 – Getting into competitions climbing, and most memorable competitions from 14 years of competing
22:15 – Going climbing outdoors at the New River Gorge, being the only black people in a 50-mile radius, and navigating unwelcoming areas
25:19 – Kai’s first racist encounter, and “the race talk”
28:25 – Outdoor climbing as a break from the pressure of competitions, and taking a break from competing to go to college on a full scholarship
31:01 – ‘Reflections on My Climbing Journey’, and Kai’s struggle with an eating disorder
36:33 – Quick vs. sustainable, and finding a better way to be better
38:10 – Thinking about food in a healthier way, climbing 5.14+ at 5’3” and 6’3”, and adapting to a grown-up body
40:27 – Kai’s feelings about projecting, and his longest project to date
41:59 – How Kai’s training has changed as an adult, a typical week of training, and Kai’s coach
45:40 – Looking up to Adam Ondra, stretching for one hour every morning, and Kai’s drop knee stretch
52:05 – Why being more flexible = being a better climber
53:38 – Why Adam Ondra is the best
55:00 – Feeling more complete as a person by helping people
56:04 – Kai’s thoughts on climbing pace
58:31 – Patron Question: What is it like being the tallest professional climber out there? Does Kai run into any situations in which he thinks, “Damn, I wish I were shorter…” If so, how often?
1:01:35 – Patron Question from Joe: I’m 6’5” and I wonder if Kai has any rules or beta for climbing through scrunchy moves that you can’t reach past?
1:02:42 – Volunteering with diversity and inclusion organizations, opening doors for others, and bridging gaps
1:07:29 – Climbing for Change (C4C), partnering with One Climb in Atlanta, and launching scholarships for individuals
1:10:47 – Patron Question from Nathan: What challenges have you faced in developing C4C?
1:12:18 – How to donate to C4C
1:13:03 – Patron Question from Nathan: What are the benefits of having your mom as a coach? What are some of the difficulties?
1:16:34 – Patron Question from Nathan: Do you think you will ever get into trad climbing? How about big walls?
1:18:11 – Kai’s (very impressive) trip to the Hurricave, and aspirations to climb 5.15
1:21:12 – Patron Question from Anna: Having grown up in the spotlight, how does Kai view his private life vs. his public life, and does he struggle to find a balance?
1:23:43 – Patron Question from Sarah: If you could get every young climber to internalize one message what would it be?
1:25:24 – Most recent meal, Asian food, Cheetos, favorite songs, and the crying laughing emoji
1:30:27 – Family
1:31:04 – Excited about Climbing for Change
1:31:57 – Instagram, outfits, and sharing experiences to help others