EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau

August 21, 2023

Photo by Stuart Tappe

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts

Check out Carlos’ Episode:

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas


Show Notes:

Other Recommended Episodes:

EP 58: Carlos Tkacz

EP 109: Martin Keller

EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns


Carlos’ Rocklands Write-Up:

Rocklands Write-Up

Carbon Credit Non-Profit:

carbonlighthouse.org

Book List:

The Only Good Indians by Stephen Graham Jones

The Raft by Fred Strydom

Zoo City by Lauren Beukes

Parable of the Sower by Octavia Butler

Kindred by Octavia Butler

Moon of the Crusted Snow by Waubgeshig Rice

This Island Will Sink by Briohny Doyle

The Flamethrowers by Rachel Kusher

Miko Kings by LeAnne Howe

Animal's People by Indra Sinha

Burnt Shadows by Kamila Shamsie

The Word for World is Forest by Ursula K. LeGuin

The Marrow Thieves by Cherie Dimaline 

Kiss of the Spider Woman by Manuel Puig


Carlos and Steph’s Books:

The Void Within by Carlos Tkacz

The Void Beyond by Carlos Tkacz

The Terror of the Void by Carlos Tkacz

The Call of Uwyn by Stephanie Letourneau



Other Books Mentioned:

Ecology Without Nature by Timothy Morton

Dark Ecology by Timothy Morton


Videos & Films:

Pure

Specimen (Cedar Wright in Rocklands)


Other References:

The Day You Became a Better Writer


Carlos & Steph on Instagram:

@boulderbushido

@aliveamongmountains

Nuggets:

0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits

0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner

0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder

0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better

0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school

0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year

0:21:23 – Steph’s experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing

0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands’ style, Carlos’ first 8B ‘Monkey Business’, and learning to try harder

0:33:10 – Steph’s lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele

0:37:21 – Carlos’ experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback

0:39:50 – Steph’s send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness’ 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline’ 7C+

0:43:02 – Carlos’ tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar’ 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing

0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void’ 8B

0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar’, and drawing inspiration from “the kids”

0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films

0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best

1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource

1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed

1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent

1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs

1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves

1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing

1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience

1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics

1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences

1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks

1:45:47 – Teaching

1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts

2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we’ve impacted nature

2:09:26 – Steph’s thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance

2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions

2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester

2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas

2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever

2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family

2:36:16 – Carlos’ new book list

2:40:31 – Speculative fiction

2:42:09 – Carlos’ latest book projects, and Steph’s first novel

2:45:59 – Carlos’ horror film

2:48:19 – Steph’s new book project, and where to find her first book

2:49:54 – Publishing a book

2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher

2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams

2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky’ as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie

2:58:24 – Enjoying the process

2:59:40 – What’s next?

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EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler