EP 165: Charlie Schreiber
April 17, 2023
Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more! You can learn more about Charlie at paradigmclimbing.com
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Charlie:
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Ben Wheeler (Aug 14, 2023)
EP 206: Charlie Schreiber Returns (Feb 19, 2024)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger (My Bicep Tendon Injury Update)
Videos:
Advanced Slab Tips (Paradigm Climbing)
Other References:
Dr. Climber Mike (on Instagram)
Charlie’s Links:
Nuggets:
0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess
0:04:34 – Charlie’s apartment, and making and collecting art
0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast
0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch
0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie’s own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids
0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play
0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone’s going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”
0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)
0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab
0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things
0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals
0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats
0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #1
0:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze
0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie’s climbing, and asking “why”
0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs
0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker
1:03:15 – The forced move drill
1:05:35 – Charlie’s goal to climb V13, and the path to get there
1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum
1:14:37 – More about Charlie’s approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands
1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs
1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall
1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill
1:33:58 – Charlie’s honeymoon
1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool
1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth
1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time
1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag
1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury
1:52:45 – Charlie’s experiment with an alkaline diet
1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram
2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene
2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt
2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up