EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson)
November 23, 2020
Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle. You can learn more about Dru at drumackclimbs.com
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Dru:
Follow-Up: Dru Mack (Aug 12, 2021)
Patreon:
Follow-Ups:
thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups
Mentioned Podcasts:
Power Company EP 128 w/ Dru Mack (Mentorship feat. Lee Smith)
Power Company EP 103 w/ Dru Mack (The List)
The List:
Golden 14b Cathedral
F Dude 14a VRG
Closing Down 14a Mt. Charleston
Scarface 14a Smith
White Wedding 13d/14a Smith
Dead Souls 13d/14a American Fork
Zulu 14a Rifle
Living in Fear/Living the Dream 13d/14a Rifle
Rodeo Free Europe 14a Wild Iris
Third Millenium 14a The Monastery
The Bleeding 14b Mill Creek
Books:
Exhalation by Ted Chiang (9 short Sci-Fi stories)
Resources:
Contact Climbing Gym in St. George
Music:
Dru’s Hype-Up Songs:
‘Butterfly Effect’ by Travis Scott
‘Dreams and Nightmares’ by Meek Mill
Routes Mentioned:
‘Flight of the Conchords’ 5.14c, Hurricave, UT
‘The Crew’ 5.14c, Rifle, CO
‘Wacka Flacka Flame’ 5.14c, Rifle, CO
‘Simply Read’ 5.13d, Rifle, CO
‘Bride of Frankenstein’ 5.13d, Rifle, CO
’Slice of Life’ 5.13d, Rifle, CO
‘Piece of Cake’ 5.13d, Rifle, CO
‘The Kind Traverse’ V11, RMNP, CO
‘Omaha Beach’ 5.14a, Red River Gorge, KY
‘Quick Tick Egyptian’ 5.13b, Rifle, CO
‘The Force’ 5.13a, Red River Gorge, KY
Fraguel wall in Mallorca
‘Fisheye’ 5.14b, Oliana, Spain
‘Closing Down’ 5.14a, The Hood, Mt. Charleston, NV
‘Fall of Man’ 5.13b, VRG, AZ
‘Golden’ 5.14b, Cathedral, St. George, UT
‘Living in Fear, 5.13d, Rifle, CO
‘Zulu’ 5.14a, RIfle, CO
‘Living the Dream, 5.14a, Rifle, CO
Dru’s Links:
Nat’s Links:
Nuggets:
4:12 – Send Frosties vs. sad Frosties, DQ Blizzards, and steak dinners
6:01 – One “health day” per week, and crunches for beach abs
7:17 – Battling ‘The Crew’
9:14 – Project climbing vs. mixing it up, and “every project has a different process”
13:01 – ‘The Flame’, and going on bouldering trips to help his sport climbing
16:10 – Balancing performance climbing with Moonboard sessions, bouldering trips, and hangboarding
18:41 – Dru’s bouldering trip to Estes
19:55 – Bouldering sessions in the gym ,and Is, Ys, and Ts
21:35 – Dru’s stretching practice
24:15 – The importance of fun
26:28 – My breathing challenge from Ethan Pringle
30:07 – The theme I’ve noticed in top climbers through the podcast
31:28 – Introducing Nat, the prospect of shoulder surgery, and “decisions are always easier when they’re made for you”
34:14 – Question for Nat: What are some of the cultural differences you noticed (related to climbing) between Spain and the US? What can you attribute to higher climbing standards in Spain?
38:28 – The Spanish warmup
39:37 – Lessons from climbing with the Pou brothers
41:15 – Nat’s progression from 12d/13a to 5.14 in 3.5 years in Spain
42:31 – Nat’s challenges with the language barrier in Spain and feeling emotionally blunted
44:01 – “You don’t get over the fears.”
46:11 – Learning from friends
49:15 – Social media and room for mistakes and growth
57:37 – Lee and mentorship
1:03:30 – ‘Middle Child’
1:06:57 – Being “Lee” for some other kid someday
1:07:59 – Dru’s biggest weaknesses leaving the Red
1:09:45 – Dru’s first trip to Europe, climbing with J-Star, and doing ‘Fisheye’
1:11:32 – Getting lowered off the end of his rope, and “always getting better.”
1:13:41 – Plans to move to St. George, and what Dru is focusing on to continue getting better
1:15:36 – Dru’s mantras, little victories, and staying positive
1:18:06 – Update on “The List” (from J-Star), and campusing slabs at the VRG
1:22:18 – Stiff shoes and calf raises for kneebars
1:23:48 – Plans to continue “The List”, and balancing volume climbing with projecting
1:28:07 – 5.15?
1:32:51 – Moving to St. George, community, and balancing connection with solo time
1:39:54 – The book ‘Exhalation’
1:43:03 – Productivity vs. down time, phones as a tool, and asking ourselves, “do I have the time to be entertained right now?”
1:46:37 – Shoutout to listeners! Thank you so much for your questions, seriously!
1:46:59 – Patron Question: What should I do to prepare for a trip to the Red? (given two to three months to prepare)
1:51:47 – Breaking down the “2x2” and the “3x3”
1:54:16 – Best angles to train on for the Red
1:55:03 – How to progress your training leading up to a trip to the Red
1:58:05 – Short summary of Red training
1:58:26 – Fingers and core, and Dru’s current approach to finger strength
2:01:18 – R&B and hype up music
2:03:16 – “Enjoy every second of it.”
2:05:44 – Gratitude for friends and supportive community
2:06:51 – “Would I be ok trying this route for a month and not doing it..?”, and last ditch efforts on ‘The Crew’
2:09:17 – More gratitude, blue-point-thumb-wrestling, and basketball
2:11:50 – Send Frosty and donuts