EP 156: Fundamentals Part 3
February 13, 2023
Photo of me on Anti-Phil 5.13b in Rifle by Dylan Connole
Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out more Fundamentals episodes!
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone (July 18, 2022)
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Show Notes:
Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew
Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip
Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag
Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal
Tip #5: Dial in your snack game
Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers
Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders
Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip
Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills
Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip
Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have
Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try
Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try
Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both
Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip
Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone
Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations
Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count
Jesse’s Links:
Steven’s Links:
Other References:
Nuggets:
0:03:29 – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations
0:09:16 – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock
0:10:29 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew
0:11:38 – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip
0:13:12 – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful
0:14:30 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip
0:15:30 – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy
0:16:14 – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall
0:18:38 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag
0:19:48 – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have
0:22:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try
0:23:21 – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose
0:23:57 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal
0:25:40 – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try
0:27:29 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game
0:29:02 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both
0:31:59 – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time
0:38:35 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers
0:40:47 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip
0:43:19 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders
0:45:45 – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip
0:48:11 – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting
0:50:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone
0:51:31 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip
0:52:10 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations
0:53:55 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills
0:54:25 – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count