EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2)
Feb 1, 2021
Photo: Jessica Talley
This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Listen to Part 1 here.
Check out other episodes with Jon:
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg (Apr 15, 2021)
Patreon:
Jon’s Training Plan:
Example Training Days, Weeks, and Blocks
Flexibility Exercises:
Products Mentioned:
Instagram Links:
LT11 Videos:
Louder Than Eleven YouTube Channel
Emily climbing Golden Gate (her six-day ascent in 2015)
‘Deep Water’ Deep Water Soloing in Vietnam
Routes Mentioned:
‘Golden Gate’ 5.13b, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA
‘The Big Island’ V15, Fontainbleau, France
‘Martini Right’ V12, Hueco Tanks, TX
’The Bleeding;’ 5.14b, Mill Creek, UT
‘King’s Landing’ V10, Mt. Evans, CO
‘Dabloons’ 5.14b, Mt. Evans, CO
Jon’s Links:
Nuggets:
4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave
10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits
13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box
14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc)
16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system
21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute
22:46 – How Jon structures his training week
27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest
31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting
34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch
37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block
39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong
40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner
42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing
46:14 – Skin
47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up
50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out
54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed”
55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block
1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win
1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board
1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip
1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard
1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people
1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days
1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’
1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts
1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film
1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11
1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends
1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing