EP 226: Justen Sjong
June 24, 2024
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns
Four Stages of Technique:
1) Balance
2) Thought
3) Movement
4) Rate
Three Questions to Ask Yourself When You Fall:
1) What just happened?
2) What do I need?
3) How am I going to get that?
Justen’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:25 – Justen’s climbing background
00:07:27 – Fear and anxiety
00:11:30 – Some of Justen’s hardest routes
00:14:55 – Defining “technique”
00:18:05 – Defining “effective” & “efficient”
00:21:14 – Reflection & confidence
00:26:22 – Our three batteries
00:27:24 – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
00:43:06 – Diving into a specific technique
00:50:48 – Drop, Drive, Stop
01:02:00 – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
01:11:44 – Structuring practice
01:14:28 – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
01:16:48 – Alex Puccio’s posture
01:19:17 – Getting into the moment
01:21:00 – Three questions
01:23:45 – Shifting from thinking to feeling
01:30:36 – How to practice ANY technique
01:35:47 – Sending things faster
01:44:57 – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
01:50:43 – Board climbers
01:54:06 – Watching & noticing
01:57:19 – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
02:01:13 – Justen’s big goal
02:03:29 – What he is working on in his climbing
02:07:47 – Closing questions & nuggets
02:31:17 – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser