EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle)
September 18, 2023
The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy and projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Other Related Episodes:
Check out EP 179-185 for more Rocklands episodes!
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Active Flexion)
Videos Mentioned:
Hangboard 2 Time Per Day for 30 Days
Ethan’s bat hang on the DWS in Rocklands
Other References:
Connor Herson repeats Blackbeard’s Tears
Ethan’s Links:
Nuggets:
0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:
0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip
0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway
0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals
0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow
0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried
0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip
0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude
0:28:02 – Patron Questions:
0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands
0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength
0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland
0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney
0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity
0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips
0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA
1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA
1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge
1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA
1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip
1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As
1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs
1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had
1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing
1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge
1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road
1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US
1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”
1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles
1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands
1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders
1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop
1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits
2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:
2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets
2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it
2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs
2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy
2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up