EP 68: Steve McClure
May 10, 2021
Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more. You can learn more about Steve at steve-mcclure.com
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Steve:
Follow-Up: Steve McClure (Mar 29, 2022)
Support on Patreon:
Steve’s Book:
Beyond Limits: A Life Through Climbing by Steve McClure
Steve’s Blog Articles:
Videos:
Steve making the FA of Rainman 9b (5.15b)
Ben Moon repeats Rainshadow 9a (5.14d)
Steve McClure onsights Nightmayer (E8)
Exercises:
Routes Mentioned:
‘Liqueur de Coco’ 7c+ (5.13a), Verdon, France
‘Shere Kahn’ E3 (5.11), Park Nab, UK (Steve’s first E3)
‘Rainman’ 9b (5.15b), Malham Cove, UK
‘Rain Dogs’ 8a (5.13b), Malham Cove, UK
‘Rainshadow’ 9a (5.14d), Malham Cove, UK
‘Overshadow’ 9a+ (5.15a), Malham Cove, UK
‘Mutation’ 9a (+?) (5.14d), Raven Tor, UK
‘Nightmayer’ E8 6c, (5.13b), Dinas Cromlech in Llanberis, Snowdonia
‘Just Do It’ 5.14c, Smith Rock, OR
‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR
Steve’s Links:
Nuggets:
4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen
6:22 – Hitching
13:58 – Growing up in the Northeast of England, and the climbing wall Steve built in his garage
18:43 – Early climbing, and discovering sport climbing
22:36 – Steve’s first E3
26:42 – Tenacity, and trying hard
29:22 – “It’s all down to motivation.” - Ben Moon
34:16 – ‘Rainman’
37:28 – Going with the flow vs. pursuing long-term goals
44:08 – ‘Mutation’, and Will Bossi
47:21 – “You make your own luck.”
48:19 – Was ‘Mutation’ the first 5.15?
49:54 – “You can’t have regrets.”
52:32 – My (Steven’s) struggle with personal limits, how hard Steve was climbing at my age, and the good news for aging climbers
56:17 – The mental and technical aspects of climbing
57:42 – The three parts of climbing ability (technical, mental, and physical)
59:46 – Foot-on campusing (aka laddering)
1:08:30 – How Steve fits in foot-on campusing around other climbing and training
1:12:27 – Question from Branko: How do you approach climbing at your local crag, after you’ve done everything? Do you only get on the hard stuff, or do you repeat any routes to continue building your pyramid?
1:15:40 – How Steve approached each new season on Rainman, and adding more thought to his climbing gym sessions
1:19:08 – Question from Adriel: One exercise to improve strength?
1:22:00 – Question from Adriel: Who would win in an arm-wresting match between Steve and Dave MacLeod?
1:23:34 – Question from Will: How does Steve balance training and recovery as he gets older?
1:26:23 – Steve’s typical climbing schedule at age 50, and his routine for Rainman
1:31:06 – Question from Anderson: Does Steve think his hardest climbing is ahead of him? What about his best?
1:33:14 – Steve’s hardest climb (his onsight of ‘Nightmare’)
1:34:26 – The best
1:35:24 – Steve’s decision to move to Sheffield
1:38:10 – Steve’s go-to breakfast
1:39:49 – Writing, and Steve’s training diary
1:45:26 – Gratitude
1:49:29 – Frozen fingers, and Steve’s onsight attempt of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’
1:53:42 – The great equalizer
1:56:52 – Steve’s Instagram and website
1:58:52 – Pembroke, witnessing an accident, and rethinking risk