EP 74: Tom Randall
June 21, 2021
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Tom
Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel (Mar 6, 2023)
Support on Patreon:
Other Podcasts Mentioned:
Nugget Podcast EP 68: Steve McClure
Lattice Training Podcast w/ Steve McClure
The Late Night Climbering Show:
Tom and Pete vs. Allison and Kyra
Tom and Pete vs. Magnus and Marte
Lattice Training Resources:
Exercises:
Articles:
Tom’s Article from Rock & Ice (full version)
Films:
Routes Mentioned:
‘Century Crack’ 5.14b, White Rim, Canyonlands, UT
‘Recovery Drink’, 5.14c, Profile Wall, Jøssingfjord, Norway
Tom’s Links:
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training
45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?
49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles
54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?
59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?
1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?
1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?
1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?
1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?
1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work
1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show
1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel
1:16:02 – Gratitude