EP 75: John Long
June 28, 2021
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Support on Patreon:
John’s Books:
Films:
Articles:
Climbing.com | Stonemaster John Long Comes Clean on Alcoholism
References:
Bong (piece of climbing gear)
Route’s Mentioned:
Tahquitz and Suicice Rock (areas)
‘Paisano Overhang’ 5.12d, Suicide Rock, CA
‘Goldrush’ 5.11b, Yosemite, CA
‘Hangover’ 5.13b, Tahquitz Rock, CA
‘The Vampire’ 5.11a, Tahquitz Rock, CA
‘The Naked Edge’ 5.11b, Eldorado Canyon, CO
‘Regular Route’ Half Dome, Yosemite, CA
‘Regular Route’ Rostrum, Yosemite, CA
‘Serenity Crack’ 5.10d, Royal Arches, Yosemite, CA
‘Sons of Yesterday’ 5.10-, Royal Arches, Yosemite, CA
‘The Nose’, 5.9 A2, El Cap, Yosemite, CA
‘The Salathe’ 5.9 A2, El Cap, Yosemite, CA
‘Muir Wall’ 5.10 A2, El Cap, Yosemite, CA
‘The Prow’ 5.8 A2, Washington Column, Yosemite, CA
‘Lost Arrow Chimney’ 5.10a, Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, CA
‘Direct North Buttress (DNB)’ Middle Cathedral, Yosemite, CA
‘Astroman’ 5.11c, Washington Column, Yosemite, CA
‘Chouinard-Herbert’ 5.11c, Sentinel, Yosemite, CA
‘Valhalla’ 5.11a, Suicide Rock, CA
‘The Gold Wall’ 5.10a A2, Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, CA
‘Bob Lock Memorial Buttress’ 5.11b A4, Mt. Watkins, Yosemite, CA
John’s Links:
Nuggets:
3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds
6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing
10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing
12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing
17:47 – Paisano Overhang
30:23 – Hangover
38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing
47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club
49:28 – Jim Bridwell
54:23 – The Nose in a day
59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.
1:04:08 – The cafeteria
1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route
1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”
1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?
1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler
1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?
1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon
1:30:19 – John’s writing practice
1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse
1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome
1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles
1:54:01 – Gratitude