May 17, 2021

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok, daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more.

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts

Check out other episodes with Ron:

Support on Patreon:  

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Ron’s AAC Lifetime Achievement Award:

americanalpineclub.org/abd-awards

Movies:

Cliffhanger

Mission Impossible 2

Yosemite: Ascending Rhythm

Return to Balance: A Climber’s Journey

The Grounded (Documentary about Barefoot Standing)


Music:

Are You Experienced album by Jimi Hendrix

Astroman song by Jimi Hendrix 

Midnight Lightning song by Jimi Hendrix 

Monkey Man song by The Rolling Stones 


Books:

Basic Rockcraft by Royal Robbins

Tales of Power by Carlos Castaneda

Separate Reality by Carlos Castaneda

Autobiography of a Yogi by Paramahansa Yogananda

Spirit of the Rock by Ron Kauk

The Nature Way by Corbin Harney


Sacred Rok:

Website

Sacred Rok Instagram


From Alan Watts:

Alan’s Email

The Photo


Routes Mentioned:

‘Butterballs’ 5.11c, Cookie Cliff, Yosemite, CA

‘The Nutcracker' 5.8, Yosemite, CA

‘Outer Limits’ 5.10c, Cookie Cliff, Yosemite, CA

‘The Nose’ 5.9 C2, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA

‘Midnight Lightning’ V8, Camp 4, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA, 1978)

‘Astroman’ 5.11c, Washington Column, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA w/ Bachar and Long, 1975)

‘Entrance Exam’ 5.9, Arch Rock, Yosemite, CA

‘Tales of Power’ 5.12b, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA)

‘Separate Reality’ 5.12a, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA)

‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR

‘Magic Line’ 5.14c, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA on pre-placed gear, 1996)

‘Thriller’ V9/10, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA, 1984)

‘The North Face’ 5.11c, The Rostrum, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA w/ Yablonski, 1977)

‘Heaven’ 5.12d/13a, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA, 1990s)

‘Peace’ 5.13c/d, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA)

‘Taco Chips’ 5.13a, Smith Rock, OR

‘Crossroads’ 5.13a, Yosemite, CA (Kauk FA, 1990)

‘Backbone’ 5.13a, Smith Rock, OR


Ron’s Links:

Sacred Rok Website

Sacred Rok Instagram


Nuggets:

4:17 – Out of the blue, and reflecting on a life of climbing

8:19 – Sylvester Stallone, Wolfgang Gulich, and a brief career in Hollywood

18:48 – Doubling for Tom Cruise, and working on films in Yosemite

20:14 – “We would do anything to make $1000.”

23:24 – Ron’s first wilderness trip at age 14, and early rock climbing

28:43 – Rattlesnake Ridge

32:33 – Climbing ‘The Nutcracker’

35:17 – Catching rides to Yosemite, and Dale Bards bakery van

38:07 – ‘Outer Limits’ with Bridwell

39:28 – Ron’s first summer in Yosemite, and “all I needed to do was get there.”

42:55 – A day in the life in Camp 4, and climbing The Nose in a day

48:23 – Jimmy Hendrix

52:40 – ‘Midnight Lightning’

57:41 – Playful training, and 100 fingertip pull-ups

1:00:13 – Catching waves, and freeing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar

1:07:53 – Carlos Casteneda, ‘Tales of Power’, and ’Separate Reality’ 

1:13:47 – The end of the 70s, ‘To Bolt’, and ‘Magic Line’

1:18:27 – “I am that waterfall.”

1:20:19 – Mother nature, nurture, and becoming better caretakers

1:21:47 – Sacred Rok, and the universe as our university

1:26:15 – Sponsorship and performing

1:29:34 – Ron’s vision for what climbing could be

1:35:44 – Taking time in nature, and getting back to the basics 

1:39:45 – Barefoot standing

1:49:12 – Slowing down

1:54:11 – Words from Alan Watts (the climber)

2:03:30 – Questions from Alan 

2:12:12 – The photograph

2:15:56 – “We really are all connected.”

2:19:21 – Follow-Up teaser, and show notes


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EP 68: Steve McClure