Episodes Feed

EP 194: Will Anglin

EP 194: Will Anglin

Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training for climbing, why we should treat climbing like baseball, the number one thing all climbers should do, the evolution of Tension, why it took 10+ years to develop the Tension Board 2 (TB2), why every detail matters when building a new product, and much more!

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EP 193: Mat Wright

EP 193: Mat Wright

Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low-income government housing, teaching himself how to rope solo as a teenager, reaching V13 and 5.14c in his first three years of climbing, pivoting to hardcore trad climbing, his upcoming film in the Brit Rock Film Tour, and much more!

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EP 192: Alex Biale
Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Real Talk Steven Dimmitt Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Real Talk Steven Dimmitt

EP 192: Alex Biale

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!

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EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns

EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!

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EP 190: Josh Champion
Top Real Talk, Top Mind/Mindset Steven Dimmitt Top Real Talk, Top Mind/Mindset Steven Dimmitt

EP 190: Josh Champion

Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!

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EP 189: Lily Kral
Top Real Talk, Top Lady Crushers, Top Business Steven Dimmitt Top Real Talk, Top Lady Crushers, Top Business Steven Dimmitt

EP 189: Lily Kral

Lily Kral is the owner of Boardworks in Bend, Oregon. We talked about her childhood and her mother’s struggle with addiction, being hospitalized for an eating disorder, exotic dancing her way through college, finding an identity as a strong climber, why she decided to build a board climbing gym, biggest challenges, burning the candle at both ends, being a work in progress, training for 5.14 at Smith Rock, and much more!

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EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner
Top Route Setters, Top Business Steven Dimmitt Top Route Setters, Top Business Steven Dimmitt

EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner

Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner are the founders of Ocelot Grips. We talked about their “why” for starting a climbing hold company, why the small details matter, how to make dual tex, why you can’t buy their holds online, building relationships with your customers, being fans of sports, the future of indoor climbing, the entrepreneurial spirit, producing underground hip-hop concerts, cage fighting, and much more!

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EP 187: Stefanie Myr
Top Real Talk, Top Lady Crushers Steven Dimmitt Top Real Talk, Top Lady Crushers Steven Dimmitt

EP 187: Stefanie Myr

Stefanie Myr is the head route setter, manager, and team coach at Climb Tacoma in WA. We met up in Leavenworth and talked about our similar upbringings in Christianity, why we both moved away from religion, finding “church” in the climbing community, confidence and self-belief, unique challenges as a short climber, being less certain and more curious, Stef’s polyamorous relationship with her husband and partner, compersion, honest communication, doing what you can to make the world a little better, and much more!

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EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle)
Q&A, Training, Tactics, Mental Game, Mindset Steven Dimmitt Q&A, Training, Tactics, Mental Game, Mindset Steven Dimmitt

EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle)

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy and projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!

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EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis
Top Dark Horses, Top Bouldering Steven Dimmitt Top Dark Horses, Top Bouldering Steven Dimmitt

EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!

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EP 184: Nic Rummel
Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Training Steven Dimmitt Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Training Steven Dimmitt

EP 184: Nic Rummel

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!

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EP 183: Jenn DeBellis

EP 183: Jenn DeBellis

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!

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EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau
Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Real Talk Steven Dimmitt Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses, Top Real Talk Steven Dimmitt

EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!

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EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler
Top Laughs, Top Dark Horses, Top Bouldering Steven Dimmitt Top Laughs, Top Dark Horses, Top Bouldering Steven Dimmitt

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!

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EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola
Top Bouldering, Top Laughs, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt Top Bouldering, Top Laughs, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!

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EP 179: Cat Runner
Top Real Talk, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt Top Real Talk, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt

EP 179: Cat Runner

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber’s Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!

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EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns

EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad’s life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.

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EP 177: Tiba Vroom

EP 177: Tiba Vroom

Tiba Vroom is a Dutch professional climber and cofounder of Wildflower Climbing Gym. We talked about the pressure that comes with early success, her first trip to Magic Wood and sending Riverbed 8B, confronting fear of failure, separating self-worth from performance, being the 8, starting a non-profit gym in the Netherlands, taking responsibility for your life, dream climbs in Fontainebleau, and more!

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EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns
Top Training Steven Dimmitt Top Training Steven Dimmitt

EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.

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EP 175: Ady Wright

EP 175: Ady Wright

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!

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