EP 206: Charlie Schreiber Returns
February 19, 2024
Charlie trying ‘The Big Island’ V15/8C, photo by Hugo Bouffay
Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out other episodes with Charlie:
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber (Apr 17, 2023)
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Ben Wheeler (Aug 14, 2023)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler
Get Coaching From Charlie and Alex:
References:
The Players - Dave Graham sending ‘The Island’
The Big Island Replica (Charlie’s Instagram)
Charlie’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:49 – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
00:05:00 – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
00:09:15 – Capacity and the group psych
00:12:06 – Strategy and resting hard
00:15:22 – Sleep
00:16:58 – Partnering with Alex Johnson
00:20:45 – What is Paradigm Climbing?
00:23:11 – Solving coaching puzzles
00:25:22 – 9-week cycles
00:27:34 – Deloads
00:29:19 – The brain adapts faster than the body
00:31:12 – Looking back and ahead
00:36:46 – Stacking training programs
00:42:15 – “It’s not your last day”
00:45:31 – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
00:46:37 – The similarity between training and performing
00:48:13 – Supplemental training on trips
00:50:44 – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
00:53:06 – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
00:57:59 – Blanancing trips with his marriage
01:00:15 – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
01:11:34 – How much does the replica cost?
01:14:14 – Training on the replica
01:22:21 – How to train on your project
01:27:45 – How much progress did he make on the replica?
01:29:16 – Progress and time remaining on his trip
01:32:32 – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
01:35:45 – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
01:38:40 – Will replicas unlock V18?
01:40:15 – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
01:42:20 – The Ideal Circuit
01:46:43 – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
01:51:32 – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
01:54:42 – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
01:56:30 – Creating your own boulders
01:59:08 – Imposing demands
02:01:48 – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!