EP 162: Fundamentals Part 6

March 27, 2023

Photo by Alex McIntyre of me on ‘Eternia’ V11, RMNP

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!

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Show Notes:

Tom Randall's Follow-Up:

Follow-Up: Tom Randall

Jesse’s Scheduling Your Year Template:

Year Planner - template.xlsx

Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:

Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year

Tip #2: Keep a daily journal

Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase

Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)

Pitfall #1: Just winging it

Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches

Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase

Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, and energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)


Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three

Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:

Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year

Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year

Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines

Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal

Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training

Pitfall #1: Not having a plan

Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)

Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.


Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes (and go listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall!)

Jesse’s Links:

jfireclimbing.com

Instagram

YouTube

Steven’s Links:

Instagram

Nuggets:

0:02:55 – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"

0:09:56 – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks

0:11:56 – Jesse’s new philosophy, and realizing that he will never try everything on his list

0:13:37 – Steven’s Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year

0:16:31 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year

0:17:16 – Steven’s Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year

0:20:01 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Keep a daily journal

0:21:17 – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year

0:22:14 – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season

0:24:21 – My prefered journaling method, and the +/- system

0:26:43 – Jesse’s Google Keep beta

0:28:05 – Steven’s Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines

0:34:36 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase

0:40:05 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)

0:43:27 – Steven’s Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal

0:44:34 – Steven’s Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training

0:45:23 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Just winging it

0:45:43 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not having a plan

0:47:21 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches

0:48:28 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)

0:49:22 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase

0:52:14 – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session

0:53:55 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.

0:55:24 – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)

0:57:12 – The progression zone

0:58:04 – Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall

0:58:47 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three

0:59:22 – Jesse’s two goals for 2022

1:00:13 – Let us know if you want a season 2!

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EP 163: Johnny Dawes

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EP 161: Sam Stroh