EP 224: Jana Švecová
Jun 17, 2024
Photo by Lukáš Černý
Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Jana’s Videos:
Other References:
Jana’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:44 – Jana’s upbringing
00:07:18 – Quitting her job to climb full-time
00:08:38 – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16
00:12:39 – Climbing has it all
00:18:08 – A natural talent
00:22:20 – Discovering outdoor bouldering
00:25:57 – Childhood best friends
00:30:04 – Sharing successes
00:33:04 – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15
00:47:56 – The frustrations of projecting
00:50:46 – The next steps for ‘Terranova’
00:54:02 – Using her finger injury as an opportunity
00:58:22 – Working with her coach
01:03:23 – Improving her shoulder strength
01:08:09 – How her training has changed
01:11:58 – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment
01:15:18 – Building my own home wall
01:17:55 – Training for ‘Terranova’
01:30:02 – Motivation and side projects
01:35:18 – Self-belief
01:37:46 – Coordination and muscle memory
01:40:37 – Harry Potter museum
01:43:21 – Hand tattoos
01:44:39 – Favorite post-climbing food
01:46:15 – Ultimate achievement
01:48:51 – Best decision
01:53:17 – Bug snacks
01:56:00 – Happiest moment
01:58:58 – Silver linings
02:03:11 – Proudest of
02:06:47 – Favorite rock type
02:07:22 – Go-to climbing shoes
02:11:27 – Wrap up