EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns

June 10, 2024

Photo by Jim Pope

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.


We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Check out other episodes with Aidan:

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Show Notes:

Related Podcast Episodes:

EP 142: Aidan Roberts

Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts

EP 81: Hazel Findlay

Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay

EP 153: Ollie Torr

Follow-Up: Ollie Torr

EP 221: Keenan Takahashi

EP 174: Bernd Zangerl

References:

Aidan’s post about The Midnight Project

Aidan’s 1st post about Spots of Time

Aidan’s 2nd post about Spots of Time

Films:

How Aidan Roberts Trains For Hard Bouldering Projects

Aidan's Hardest Challenge Yet • Bouldering Projects Update

An Unusual Choice • World-class Bouldering In Finland Ep.1

Mastery: Aidan Roberts Pushing the Limits of Bouldering | Climbing Documentary

Aidan’s Links:

Instagram

The Careless Talk Podcast

Nuggets:

00:00:00 – Intro

00:04:59 – Recooperation phase

00:08:18 – Powering through

00:10:24 – Course corrections

00:13:58 – Climbing as his work

00:21:45 – Enduring austerity

00:24:17 – His role as a pro climber

00:29:28 – Our relationships with climbing

00:35:54 – Navigating pro climbing

00:45:44 – Valuing integrity

00:49:11 – Climbing media & being impressionable

00:52:51 – Reflecting on experiences

01:04:23 – Aidan’s last year and a half

01:08:54 – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)

01:33:30 – Trying Burden last Fall

01:41:47 – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou

01:46:41 – Back to The Midnight Project

01:50:28 – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)

02:03:39 – Training in the UK last winter

02:07:03 – Sending Spots of Time

02:08:18 – Sending Arrival of the Birds

02:30:31 – Glimpsing mastery

02:33:33 – Appreciating the places we climb

02:38:06 – Proposing grades

02:52:01 – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?

03:08:35 – Exhausted & reexamining eating

03:12:42 – His foot injury & next climbing steps

03:14:23 – Plans for an EXTRA

03:18:22 – An adventurous attitude

03:20:04 – Burden of Dreams

03:26:03 – Finnish bouldering

03:32:48 – Wrap up

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EP 224: Jana Švecová

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EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Returns