EP 23: Jasna Hodzic
June 22, 2020
Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to climb a route called ‘Voodoo’ 5.14b, and about her struggles with a misdiagnosed finger injury, compartment syndrome, and RED-S. You can learn more about Jasna at https://jasnahodzic.blog/
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Overcast, Stitcher, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Jasna:
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodzic (Dec 10, 2020)
Patreon:
Follow-Ups:
thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups
Articles:
GoGnarly - Jasna’s article about RED-S
GoGnarly - Jasna’s article about transitioning away from veganism
Jasna’s blog post about sending Voodoo
Books and Apps:
Olive Kerridge by Elizabeth Stout
Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan
Merle's Door: Lessons from a Freethinking Dog by Ted Kerasote
Routes Mentioned:
‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR
‘Scarface’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR
‘Mr. Yuk’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR
‘Chemical Ali’ 5.14a, Smith Rock, OR
‘Heinous Cling’ 5.12c, Smith Rock, OR
‘Darkness At Noon’ 5.13a, Smith Rock, OR
‘Karate Wall’ 5.12c, Smith Rock, OR
‘Peace’ 5.13d, Toulumnee Meadows, CA
‘Black Magic’ 5.13a, Equinox, WA
‘Black Magin Jump Start’ 5.12d, Equinox, WA
‘Killer Bees’ 5.13d, Hurricave, UT
‘Papa Legba (sp?)’ 5.14a, Equinox, WA
Jasna’s Links:
Nuggets:
2:18 – Woodstoves, cooking while driving, and leaving an ice cube tray in the oven
5:46 – Hyper + cute boys, Mr. Buff Man, and getting into rock climbing
8:35 – Studying abroad in Spain in 2013, climbing at world-class areas, and finding an infectious climbing scene
11:38 – ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, the archetype of hard rock climbing, pure inspiration, and commuting from Seattle to try the route
18:35 – Advantages of top-roping, skin pain, and progression on To Bolt
22:23 – “Smedges”, going through six pairs of Muira VSs, punting at the 10th bolt, and bailing on her own birthday party
27:31 – Taping for warmups, warming up for To Bolt, and the Mike Doyle story
31:48 – Climbing ‘Peace’ first redpoint try, onsighting the last two bolts, and glacier polish
40:35 – Tick marks, visualizing, and focusing on the crux
43:07 – ‘Voodoo’ (Jasna’s first 5.14b), Equinox, and the jump start
48:34 – Jasna’s fake finger injury
59:28 – Taking a break from the gym and feeling stronger after a winter of rock climbing
1:03:13 – Mixing projects and quick ticks, trying hard routes, and anti-style
1:08:17 – Vertical climbing isn’t type 1 fun, steep climbing during quarantine, and climbing 14a in her anti-style
1:10:10 – Scuba diving on ‘Papa Legba’
1:14 14 – The foot story (compartment syndrome)
1:30:59 – Dealing with injuries and gratitude for health and health care
1:37:38 – Jasna’s experience with RED-S (formerly know as Female Athlete Triad)
1:45:43 – How Jasna has changed her diet post-RED-S, cottage cheese, getting DEXA scans, and other takeaways
1:53:53 – Eating more frequently, calories, calve muscles, and body fat
1:57:13 – Favorite books
2:01:37 – Photojournalism, Jasna’s R&I article, blogging, writing to process the gunk in your head, and the importance of publishing
2:07:11 – Dreams of making a living as a writer, and her PhD
2:10:20 – Gratitude for health and partnerships
2:13:23 – Climbing goals, being meticulous with climbing, and falling into projects
2:18:37 – Not on the Insta-Twitter