EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni)
October 3, 2022
My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids. You can learn more about Taylor at tangentclimbing.com
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Check out more Q&A episodes.
Patreon:
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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Show Notes:
Referenced Podcast Episodes:
EP 70: Steve Maisch (Steve’s Follow-Ups linked here too)
Taylor on the Power Company Podcast:
Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
Books:
The Inner Game of Tennis by W. Timothy Gallwey
Nighttime Bouldering:
3000 Lumen Rechargeable LED Work Light
1500 Lumen Rechargeable LED Work Light
Ryobi 18-Volt Portable Fan with Battery and Charger
Deadlifting Resources:
Natasha Barnes Instagram Story Highlights
Beta Videos:
Pyramids:
Sport Climbing Pyramid Template
Taylor’s Links:
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!
0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:
0:03:00 – Metal Game
0:06:09 – Watching Videos
0:09:55 – Visualization
0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)
0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises
0:28:37 – Getting Creative
0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls
0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!
0:30:59 – Patron Questions:
0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?
0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?
0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?
0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc
0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?
1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?
1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?