EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns
January 22, 2024
Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out other episodes with Tyler
EP 79: Tyler Nelson (Jul 26, 2021)
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson #2 (Jan 4, 2023)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Finger Anatomy)
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Active Flexion vs. Passive Tension)
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns
Tyler’s Finger Training YouTube Series:
Finger Strength Training 4 Rock Climbing (No Hanging Required!)
How to Test Finger Strength (and what you should do with the results!)
Small Edge Finger Strength (The on-wall exercise to improve your climbing!)
Other Resources:
Tim Ferriss podcast w/ Coach Sommer
Tyler’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:04:03 – The donut festival
00:06:26 – Tyler’s granite spray wall
00:07:46 – Mirrored boards
00:13:06 – Alcohol and more donuts
00:14:21 – Outline of topics
00:16:17 – Finger training topics
00:34:46 – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering
00:41:58 – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination
00:49:23 – Summary of our session
00:50:21 – When to end a session
00:52:48 – Using a mix of tools
00:54:26 – Intensity vs. volume
00:59:49 – Building capacity off the wall
01:01:39 – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools
01:05:22 – When to hangboard (and when not to)
01:09:42 – Learning and changing your mind
01:11:25 – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco
01:17:25 – Should we climb less?
01:20:24 – Lions don’t go jogging
01:21:53 – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume
01:23:31 – My takeaways for Hueco
01:24:47 – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish
01:30:02 – What is the campus board good for?
01:40:14 – How important is RFD in climbing?
01:44:33 – Common causes of injuries
01:52:32 – Transitioning back to hard climbing
01:54:55 – How your tendons change when you build capacity
01:58:29 – Do our tendons get thicker?
02:00:24 – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?
02:02:57 – What sets the best athletes apart?
02:07:46 – Takeaways
02:11:48 – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits
02:14:41 – The future of finger training
02:18:04 – Calisthenics vs. strength training
02:26:19 – Are rings exercises strength training?
02:30:12 – More strength training takeaways
02:37:05 – Wrap up