EP 201: James Pearson
January 15, 2024
James on ‘Bon Voyage’ E12
James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
James’ Films:
Reel Rock segment from Mt. Kinabalu
Compressed version or Redemption (Reel Rock TV)
Other Resources:
James’ Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:35 – Getting settled
00:03:13 – Why I feel like I know James
00:05:33 – Introducing the Redemption Story
00:08:10 – Internet backlash
00:10:05 – Coming full circle
00:13:33 – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’
00:17:10 – The full story
00:28:47 – Compassion for himself
00:30:53 – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing
00:36:05 – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey
00:41:18 – Learning how to train
00:46:33 – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months
00:52:32 – Fun and performance
00:53:23 – E grades
00:56:16 – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again
00:59:43 – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’
01:02:10 – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure
01:08:50 – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro
01:17:10 – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’
01:24:53 – Searching for his hardest trad route
01:25:59 – Making the Redemption film
01:29:21 – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond
01:35:47 – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’
01:37:15 – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD
01:38:58 – Presenting E12 again 15 years later
01:45:04 – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life
01:49:02 – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’
02:00:53 – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’
02:08:08 – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?
02:20:23 – Being more scientific about grades
02:24:54 – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?
02:38:44 – Becoming a dad
02:47:47 – What kids taught him
02:53:57 – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations
02:58:17 – Tips for climbers with kids
03:03:36 – James’ advice for his younger self
03:11:15 – Climbing matters
03:16:45 – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom
03:23:36 – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy