EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones
December 18, 2023
Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded and is a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out Will’s episode:
EP 194: Will Anglin (Nov 2023)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Resources:
RULES blog post by Will Anglin
Matt’s Links:
Jonesfitnessandperformance.com
Will’s Links:
Nuggets:
0:03:55 – Introducing to Matt Jones
0:06:43 – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for
0:09:20 – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced
0:12:37 – Reminder about timestamps
0:13:31 – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)
0:20:24 – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing
—BEGINNER STARTS HERE—
0:23:45 – Beginner | Overview
0:23:45 – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence
0:25:53 – Beginner | Strong Not Good
0:27:35 – The Hammer
0:28:51 – Not everything is a nail
0:30:00 – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer
0:34:06 – Beginner | Good Not Strong
0:34:06 – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset
0:34:47 – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)
0:36:18 – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing
0:41:48 – Interventions for beginners
0:46:35 – Identifying the low-hanging fruit
0:47:40 – Beginner | Summary
0:51:11 – Using climbing as a training intervention
0:53:41 – Checking your ego
0:55:27 – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing
—INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE—
0:59:06 – Intermediate | Overview
0:59:06 – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades
1:01:42 – “Oh no, now what?!”
1:03:22 – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber
1:05:24 – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years
1:07:14 – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story
1:10:09 – Trying hard vs. trying well
1:12:10 – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing
1:13:30 – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working
1:17:54 – Intermediate | Strong Not Good
1:18:51 – Chunking
1:20:25 – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta
1:22:47 – The guess and check model, and turning new dials
1:25:21 – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line
1:27:50 – Hip in vs. square drill
1:29:43 – Building a process for problem-solving
1:30:16 – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber
1:33:38 – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training
1:39:20 – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers
1:43:00 – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy
1:48:20 – Separating practice, training, and performance
1:50:11 – Intermediate | Good Not Strong
1:50:11 – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first
1:56:34 – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves
2:03:19 – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray
2:04:33 – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position
2:07:12 – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train
2:10:31 – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun
—ADVANCED STARTS HERE—
2:16:25 – Advanced | Overview
2:18:41 – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic
2:21:46 – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong
2:23:57 – Occupying the position
2:29:14 – Mobility and sensation
2:33:33 – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta
2:37:57 – The Golfer study
2:41:00 – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics
2:43:23 – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete
2:46:31 – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt
2:51:23 – Misusing tools from the pros
2:56:50 – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser