January 8, 2024

Photo by Lena Drapella

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!

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Show Notes:

Related Podcast Episodes:

EP 145: Katie Lamb

Follow-Up: Katie Lamb (Box Therapy)

EP 98: Kyra Condie

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman

Brooke’s Hype Music:

Losing It by FISHER

Other References:

Brooke Moonboarding with Shawn

Shawn and Brooke sending Box Therapy

Brooke’s Links:

Instagram

Nuggets:

00:00:00 – Intro

00:01:35 – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training

00:04:03 – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests

00:07:45 – Studying marketing and psychology

00:10:38 – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing

00:14:05 – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training

00:21:34 – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach

00:24:42 – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?

00:27:55 – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing

00:32:20 – Brooke’s favorite music

00:37:20 – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates

00:44:17 – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris

00:50:09 – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?

00:51:20 – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture

00:57:11 – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing

01:01:41 – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions

01:06:34 – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors mindsets, and channeling good energy

01:10:15 – Meditation and breath

01:18:10 – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS

01:23:52 – Dancing on the wall for her warmup

01:25:46 – How to use more flexibility in your climbing

01:26:45 – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?

01:31:14 – Short pinkies and crooked fingers

01:31:53 – Working with her coach Chris Danielson

01:39:09 – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?

01:41:19 – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions

01:43:54 – More about Brooke’s training

01:46:06 – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention

01:47:51 – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game

01:49:08 – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

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EP 201: James Pearson

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EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones