EP 200: Brooke Raboutou
January 8, 2024
Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb (Box Therapy)
Brooke’s Hype Music:
Other References:
Brooke Moonboarding with Shawn
Shawn and Brooke sending Box Therapy
Brooke’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:35 – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training
00:04:03 – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests
00:07:45 – Studying marketing and psychology
00:10:38 – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing
00:14:05 – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training
00:21:34 – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach
00:24:42 – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?
00:27:55 – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing
00:32:20 – Brooke’s favorite music
00:37:20 – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates
00:44:17 – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris
00:50:09 – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?
00:51:20 – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture
00:57:11 – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing
01:01:41 – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions
01:06:34 – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors mindsets, and channeling good energy
01:10:15 – Meditation and breath
01:18:10 – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS
01:23:52 – Dancing on the wall for her warmup
01:25:46 – How to use more flexibility in your climbing
01:26:45 – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?
01:31:14 – Short pinkies and crooked fingers
01:31:53 – Working with her coach Chris Danielson
01:39:09 – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?
01:41:19 – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions
01:43:54 – More about Brooke’s training
01:46:06 – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention
01:47:51 – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game
01:49:08 – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!