EP 302: Aaron Shamy
June 29, 2026
Aaron on Flight of the Conchords 5.14c — Photo by Jon Vickers
Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest route of his life. We talked about his early climbing and hiatus, the turning point, Project 127, living in the crescendo, balancing family life, his 33 days on Flight of the Conchords, the tactics that helped him send, and much more.
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Show Notes:
Aaron’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:43 – Aaron’s early climbing
00:06:56 – The X Games in the '90s
00:12:05 – 15-year hiatus
00:16:08 – The turning point
00:20:43 – Starting his comeback
00:22:33 – Milliseconds and millimeters
00:24:17 – The rule of thirds
00:27:23 – Project 127
00:41:00 – Living in the crescendo
00:44:12 – Balancing family life
00:50:24 – 33 days on Flight of the Conchords 5.14c (8c+)
00:57:32 – Why different routes require different strategies
01:01:48 – Mental strategies for reducing pressure
01:05:29 – Day 32 (the kneebar)
01:10:45 – Day 33 (the send)
01:14:11 – Playfulness & tactics
01:18:13 – Best climbing days
01:23:48 – Transformation
01:28:20 – Life of Villains 5.14d (9a)
01:32:29 – Supplements
01:34:29 – Who are you becoming?