EP 205: Adrian Vanoni
February 12, 2024
‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b by Victoria Kohner-Flanagan
Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Videos Referenced:
Mason Earle climbing Cobra Crack
Adrian’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:04 – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones
00:05:16 – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14
00:07:42 – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a
00:08:40 – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects
00:11:04 – Little Si, and a new crag in WA
00:13:30 – Adrian’s lifestyle
00:16:04 – The glamorous life of an amateur climber
00:20:29 – His beginnings in trad climbing
00:23:29 – Developing the skills to free El Cap
00:24:16 – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh
00:26:14 – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists
00:30:54 – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context
00:40:44 – Will’s impressive belay season
00:41:25 – Blue-collar sending
00:46:39 – ‘Mr. Chicken’
00:53:38 – Trying hard is trainable
00:58:50 – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress
01:00:59 – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey
01:04:00 – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b
01:10:25 – Training for Cobra on the campus board
01:17:31 – Visualization and lucid dreaming
01:21:30 – More ‘Badman’ beta
01:25:01 – The nuance of resting on sport routes
01:29:09 – Beta depends on context
01:35:58 – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’
02:00:24 – The style of big wall ascents
02:10:06 – Street credit
02:18:07 – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-
02:22:56 – Goal routes and boulders
02:31:42 – Social media vs. inspiration
02:39:41 – Not everything is for everyone
02:45:54 – My climbing as a more public person
02:49:26 – Growing to meet a route where it is
02:51:26 – Get on the hard thing you want to do
02:57:57 – ‘Freerider’ in a day
03:13:19 – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!