EP 77: Allison Vest
July 12, 2021
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Allison
Follow-Up: Allison Vest (Sept 30, 2021)
Support the Podcast:
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Facebook Group:
facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing
Resources:
IFSC World Cup in Salt Lake City recap
Allison’s Challenge Videos:
Standing spits (7-year-old gymnasts)
Training Videos:
Allison + Kyra doing one-arm pullups
Climbing Films:
Allison sending ‘The Terminator’ V13
Allison sending ‘Superman’ V10 (highball)
Natalia and Brooke’s Summer Rampage in RMNP
Other Stuff:
Boulders Mentioned:
‘Superman’ V10, Joe’s Valley, UT
‘Terminator’ V13, Squamish, CAN
‘Euro Trash’ V12, Little Cottonwood, SLC, UT
Allison’s Links:
Nuggets:
3:24 – The climbing closet
4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace
11:23 – A mix of emotions
12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber
17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure
23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities
24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates
28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie
32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training
35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”
41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos
45:06 – The standing splits challenge
47:33 – Combining training with play
52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al”
59:26 – Allison’s training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers
1:03:11 – Campusing
1:05:42 – One-arm hangs
1:16:25 – Shoulder strength
1:17:41 – Christian Core’s hangboard philosophy
1:20:07 – Grip positions
1:21:52 – Allison’s hangboard schedule, and many
different approaches that work
1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more
1:27:36 – Topouts
1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training
1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?
1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least?
1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?
1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams
1:54:09 – Best decisions
1:55:10 – Competition self-talk
1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors
1:58:06 – “More doesn’t always mean better.”
1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?
2:00:01 – Grateful for community