EP 158: Fundamentals Part 4
February 27, 2023
Jesse on the FA of ‘The Monk’ V9/10 near Bend, OR
Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out more Fundamentals episodes!
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone (July 18, 2022)
Sponsors:
Rhino Skin Solutions:
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!
Athletic Greens:
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
LMNT:
Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!
Patreon:
Become a Patron:
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama
Show Notes:
Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Structure your technical practice
Go from general to specific
Your environment should be safe
It should be easy to repeat what you’re doing
You should have immediate feedback
Go from less intense to more intense
Be consistent
Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity
Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving
Tip #3: Film yourself incessantly
How close are you to the wall?
How much weight do you have on your feet?
Are you creating tension between hands and feet?
Does your torso move in space?
Does your movement speed match the requirements of the move?
Note anything that looks off or inefficient!
Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language
Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall
Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique
Cutting your feet is still good technique if the situation demands it
Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice
Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas
Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall
Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber
Tip #2: Watch climbing videos
Intention is critical
Observe other climbers at the gym and crag
Tip #3: Do perfect repeats
Have a circuit of climbs at your home crag
Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries
Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag
Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn
E.g. Thinking you have “good technique” because you are good at one style of climbing
Pitfall #2: Going through the motions
Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing
Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style
Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing
Jesse’s Links:
Steven’s Links:
Other References:
Nuggets:
0:04:23 – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller
0:06:23 – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing
0:07:47 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice
0:10:38 – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement
0:12:25 – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s
0:14:23 – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber
0:15:35 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity
0:16:53 – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster
0:19:30 – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos
0:22:21 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessantly
0:26:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats
0:29:33 – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries
0:30:59 – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well
0:33:48 – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”
0:36:26 – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language
0:38:31 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag
0:40:33 – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement
0:42:12 – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall
0:42:12 – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully
0:43:34 – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.”
0:43:56 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall
0:48:38 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn
0:51:33 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique
0:55:08 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions
0:56:38 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice
0:58:36 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing
1:02:25 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas
1:03:51 – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style
1:06:14 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall
1:06:31 – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing