EP 234: Fundamentals S2 Part 1

August 19, 2024

Photo by Elli Doran

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Check out more Fundamentals episodes!

Jesse’s Other Episodes:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone (Jul 18, 2022)

EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns (Oct 23, 2024)

Patreon:

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Sponsors:

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

Show Notes:

Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:

Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:

Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2) 

Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

Jesse’s Links:

jfireclimbing.com

Instagram

YouTube

Nuggets:

00:00:00 – Intro

00:01:14 – Our board climbing experience

00:05:42 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

00:07:09 – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

00:10:21 – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

00:11:39 – Example board session formats

00:13:45 – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

00:15:32 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

00:22:44 – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

00:25:08 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

00:29:32 – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

00:31:38 – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

00:32:53 – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

00:34:01 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

00:37:59 – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

00:39:03 – More love for the TB2

00:44:32 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

00:47:49 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

00:49:04 – Benchmark rants

00:50:39 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

00:53:13 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

00:54:44 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

00:56:56 – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

00:57:48 – You need a reason to train things

00:59:17 – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

01:00:38 – Wrap up

Previous
Previous

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé

Next
Next

EP 233: Olympic Reactions