EP 203: Jakob Schubert
January 29, 2024
Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst
Videos:
Jakob and Adam trying Project Big
Jakob’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:44 – Jakob’s best year ever
00:08:49 – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.
00:10:40 – Inspiration for rock climbing
00:13:20 – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects
00:16:28 – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup
00:18:55 – Giving away his trophies
00:20:08 – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?
00:24:16 – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi
00:26:48 – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style
00:36:13 – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’
00:38:13 – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’
00:43:46 – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’
00:45:29 – Did live streaming change the experience?
00:48:22 – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?
00:50:26 – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’
00:53:45 – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger
00:56:26 – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?
00:59:36 – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c
01:00:00 – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?
01:01:45 – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes
01:09:16 – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’
01:11:48 – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta
01:14:48 – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’
01:17:14 – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’
01:18:28 – Speed training
01:20:02 – Recovery
01:21:09 – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it
01:25:48 – Greedy
01:27:47 – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back
01:29:30 – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by
01:35:27 – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!