EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns
July 10, 2023
Coach Hörst on Kaleidoscope 5.13c, Red River Gorge, KY
Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Check out other episodes with Eric:
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) (May 31, 2021)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) (June 7, 2021)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst
Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes:
Not having an intelligent plan for each workout/session.
Every workout is a competition with yourself.
“Cramming” training before a weekend trip or longer road trip.
Inappropriate training while injured.
Following someone else’s training plan. Copycat training, etc.
Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses.
Training hard (and hopefully training smart), yet not getting things right with regard to sleep and nutrition – the other side of the training-for-climbing coin.
Eric’s Links:
Nuggets:
0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds
0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects
0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you
0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business
0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing
0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card
0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes
0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action
0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt
0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan
0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself
0:50:24 – Bad days happen
0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip
0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured
1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention
1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan
1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses
1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing
1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong
1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap
1:51:02 – Wrap up