EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)
Jun 7, 2021
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.
Listen to this episode on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Listen to part 1 here.
Check out other episodes with Eric:
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns (July 10, 2023)
Support on Patreon:
Discount code:
“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full priced PhysiVantage products
PhysiVantage:
POWERPLEX (Plant-based protein)
Resources:
Dr. Keith Baar research on collagen synthesis
Dr. Keith Baar research on rehabbing ligaments
Eric’s Podcast:
Podcast #33: Intro to Training Tendons and Ligaments
Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
Training for Climbing:
Books:
Training for Climbing by Eric Hörst
Routes Mentioned:
‘Angry Birds’ 5.13c, Red River Gorge, KY
‘Ultra Perm’ 5.13d, Red River Gorge, KY
‘Transworld Depravity’ 5.14a, Red River Gorge, KY
‘God’s Own Stone’ 5.14a, Red River Gorge, KY
‘Reverse Polarity’ 5.14b, Mt. Potosi, NV
‘Freerider’ 5.13a, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA
‘Bone Tomahawk’ 5.14d/15a, The Fin Cave, UT
‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, Red Rocks, NV
Eric’s Links:
Training for Climbing Instagram
Nuggets:
01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football
11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season
15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)
21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles
22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c
27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)
32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)
39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches
40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer
45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein
50:02 – Crush
52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein
56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)
1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing
1:10:42 – A life’s journey
1:14:07 – Gratitude