EP 213: Simon Lorenzi
April 8, 2024
Photo by @gilles.charlier
Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Patreon:
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Sponsors:
Arc’teryx:
Shop for my favorite approach shoes
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Crimpd:
Or download the Crimpd app!
Mad Rock:
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!
YouTube:
The Nugget is on YouTube!
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing (SUBSCRIBE HERE!!)
Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi (Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A)
Simon’s Videos:
Other References:
Simon’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:15 – How to pronounce Simon
00:02:56 – Claude Lorenzi
00:05:37 – Early climbing
00:08:02 – Discovering his potential
00:10:12 – Focusing on the details
00:11:31 – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist
00:15:06 – ‘Burden of Dreams’
00:21:27 – The projecting bubble
00:25:44 – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal
00:28:11 – Precision vs. finger strength
00:29:17 – External pressure
00:33:52 – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C
00:36:09 – Optimism
00:42:48 – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’
00:45:07 – Training while projecting ‘Burden’
00:49:47 – Projecting tactics
00:51:25 – Lessons from his three 9A’s
00:54:25 – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name
00:59:11 – Kneebar + book tactics
01:02:40 – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’
01:03:23 – The goal of struggling
01:04:51 – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad
01:10:01 – Stress from his dad
01:15:14 – Sport climbing goals
01:17:31 – Future competition plans
01:21:44 – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other
01:26:10 – Training for comps vs. projects
01:27:46 – Simon’s dream 9A+ project
01:37:07 – Upcoming competitions
01:40:40 – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b
01:42:18 – Support from his dad
01:45:44 – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!