September 21, 2020

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. You can learn more about the team at www.climbstrongcoach.com

Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Overcast, Stitcher, Google Podcasts

Check out other episodes with the Climb Strong Team:

Nuggets:

[Chrissy Vadovszki]

1:37 – Introduction

1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles

3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending

6:17  – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects

8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes

9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire

10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants

[Jonathan Siegrist]

12:13 – Introduction

12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery

19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard

22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure

24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend

[Ken Klein] 

26:12 – Introduction

27:06 – Coffee for breakfast

29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”

30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing

33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard

34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves

38:09 – The One-Touch drill

40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown

41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing

44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs

48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard 

51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load

52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove

54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals

56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.” 

1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions

1:04:28 – Owning the weight

[Carly Cain]

1:05:54 – Introduction

1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp  

1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing 

1:10:44 – Reframing

1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering

1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress

1:14:38 – Rifle!

[Alex Bridgewater]

1:15:58 – Introduction

1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves

1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence

1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight

1:20:47 – Positivity

1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person

1:23:59 – “To the death.”

1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard

[Kathryn Perkinson]

1:27:37 – Introduction

1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves

1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team

1:30:06 – Philosophy

1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp

1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach

1:33:02 – A helpful reminder

1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.”

1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.”

[Charlie Manganiello]

1:36:43 – Introduction

1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.”

1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely

1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away 

1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.”

[Amanda Sempert]

1:48:07 – Introduction

1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links

1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank

1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues

1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension

1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training

[Outro]

2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast

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BONUS: Alex Bridgewater

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EP 35: Steve Bechtel