EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz
November 2, 2020
Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the world. We geeked out about all things nutrition: meal timing, protein synthesis, the role of carbs, supplements for climbers, strategies for fat loss, foods to avoid, navigating holidays, and Hailey’s favorite “healthified” treats. You can learn how to work with Hailey at otgstrength.com
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Overcast, Stitcher, Google Podcasts
Patreon:
Follow-Ups:
thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups
Hailey’s Nutritional Recommendations:
Meals:
More protein spread out throughout the day, and lots of fruits and vegetables
20 grams of protein per meal (minimum)
Some fat at each meal to buffer carb absorption
Daily Protein:
(kg) = 1.6 to 2.5 (or as high as 3) grams per kg bodyweight per day
(lbs) = ~0.7 to 1.1 (or as high as ~1.4) grams per lb bodyweight per day
Supplements:
Fish oil and protein powder (Hailey’s recommended staples)
Ingredients should look like food
3 Foods to Avoid:
1. Artificial foods
2. Food coloring
3. Tans fats (hydrogenated oils)
Alcohol:
1-2 drinks per week
Rest days are a better option vs. training/climbing days
Fat Loss:
Keep protein high
Keep carbs med/high to fuel activity/training
Slight caloric deficit, mostly from reducing fat a bit
Fasted walks
2-3 days per week
30-60 minutes
Fairly brisk pace
Resources:
National Academy of Sports Medicine
Hailey’s Favorite “Healthified” Treats:
Recipe: Chocolate Mint Brownies
Recipe: Pumpkin Spice Sweet Potato Delight
Hailey’s favorite “healthy” snacks and treats (PDF)
Routes Mentioned:
‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Bear Creek Road, Estes Park, CO
Books:
Why We Sleep by Matthew Walker
Bull's-Eye: The Power of Focus by Brian Tracy
What Hailey Is Currently Reading:
How Bad Do You Want It? by Matt Fitzgerald
Hailey’s Nostalgic Music:
“You Were There” by The ZOE Group - Hailey’s favorite ZOE Group song
“A Living Prayer” by The ZOE Group - Another of Hailey’s favorites...
OTG Strength:
Hailey’s Links:
Nuggets:
3:21 – Moving into the RV
6:34 – Travel plans, meeting in middle school, and holiday family time
8:16 – Rifle and potential plans to meet up
9:32 – Hailey’s background in dance, dabbling in climbing, and appreciating watching climbing
11:53 – Hailey’s history with ballet and dance, and growing a love for fitness and functional strength training
12:44 – Becoming interested in nutrition in college, starting OTG Strength with Matt, and every calorie as a “package of opportunity”
15:10 – Parallels between dancers and climbers in regards to nutritional needs
16:38 – Protein synthesis overview
20:22 – Strategies for optimizing protein synthesis, and planning meals around protein
21:45 – Hailey’s recommended daily protein amount (about 1.6 to 2.5 or 3 grams of protein per kg bodyweight per day—note 1 kg = 2.2 lbs)
25:57 – Hailey’s thoughts on supplements (the ingredient list should still look like food)
28:14 – Hailey’s pitch for people who feel reluctant to eat higher protein, and the many roles of amino acids
32:17 – Protein for pre-workout
33:58 – Hailey’s recommendations for peri-workout nutrition/crag food
36:40 – Alternatives to candy for quick energy at the cliff
40:31 – More recommendations related to food timing
43:46 – Shifting our eating around training blocks and energy needs
46:10 – Hailey’s supplement staples for climbers (fish oil and protein powder), and “supplements are meant to fill gaps”
48:23 – Herbs and adaptogens
50:08 – Vitamin D supplementation and food sources
53:18 – Hailey’s biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations: more protein spread out throughout the day, and more fruits and vegetables
56:42 – Prioritizing complex carbohydrates and real food at the crag
57:51 – Hailey’s thoughts on individuality in nutrition
1:00:48 – Carbohydrate tolerance, the liver’s many jobs, and “carbohydrates are not evil”
1:06:25 – Foods/ingredients that everyone should avoid: artificial foods, food coloring, and trans fats (hydrogenated oils)
1:08:55 – Hailey’s thoughts on alcohol (she recommends keeping it to 1-2 drinks per week, and on rest days)
1:14:04 – Navigating holidays, proteinizing (or healthifying) desserts and treats, and prioritizing foods that are “worth it”
1:18:23 – “Guilt isn’t a topping”, and “If I don’t eat it all today, I can still have some of it tomorrow”
1:20:40 – “Weight has purpose”, Matt’s bulking/cutting/maintenance strategy, fat loss, and how to lose 5 lbs (of fat) to peak for a project (higher protein, slight calorie deficit, and fasted walks)
1:26:26 – Matt’s morning fasted walk (30-60 minutes at a fairly brisk pace, 2-3 times per week)
1:29:46 – How gradually to lose weight during a cutting phase
1:31:58 – Relaxing during “bulking” phases, and the beauty of building good nutrition habits
1:35:13 – Your taste palette changes
1:37:07 – Summary of the big nutritional takeaways and Hailey’s emphasis (“calories and not evil, and they’re not created equal…”)
1:38:36 – What Hailey would say to her 20-year-old self, letting go of perfection, and the importance of sleep
1:40:47 – More about sleep
1:42:52 – Prioritization, saying “yes” and “no”, and “our best is worth a lot”
1:45:50 – Moving from Idaho to Salt Lake City, working at Sprouts in the vitamin department, and “honor the stepping stones”
1:49:02 – Morning routines
1:50:33 – Hailey’s current book and favorite nostalgic/grounding music
1:52:15 – Gratitude for kind people
1:53:12 – RV life and a new learning curve
1:53:54 – OTG Strength and what clients can expect if they work with Hailey and Matt
1:57:50 – Hailey’s favorite treats from the ‘Hypnotized Minds’ cheat day with Matt