EP 101: Nina Caprez
January 10, 2022
Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness. You can learn more about Nina at ninacaprez.ch
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Show Notes:
Films:
Nina on the FFA of Silbergeier 8b+ (5.14a) miltipitch
The Neverending Story 8b+ (5.14a) miltipitch
Nina on her first “French” bouldering trip to Argentina
Nina, Sean, and Roger establish the hardest route on the Eiger’s North Face
Nina climbs ‘Helix’ 8c+ (5.14c)
Andrea Project:
Other References:
Nina Climbing in Kyparissi, Greece
Route’s Mentioned:
‘The Nose’ 5.14a, 31 pitches, 3000’, El Cap, Yosemite, CA
‘Silbergeier’ 8b+ (5.14a) miltipitch, Ratikon, Swiss Alps
‘L'or du temps’ Nina’s FA with Arnaud Petit in Chamonix (13 pitch up to 8a)
‘La Vida es Silbar’, 36 pitches up to 7c (5.12d), The North Face of The Eiger,
‘Divine Providence’ Mont Blanc, Chamonix, (Nina was the first female to onsight)
‘Merci La Vie’ Nina’s FA on the Eiger North Face with Sean and Roger
‘Helix’ 8c+ (5.14c), Pic Saint Loup, South of France
Nina’s Links:
Nuggets:
6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?
9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure
12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps
17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania
22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck
29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion
32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina
36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill
40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project
44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction
46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman
47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body
52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much
53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else
55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening
59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?
1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve
1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France
1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with
1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure
1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need
1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name
1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?
1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements
1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?
1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space
1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety
1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”