EP 207: Paul Houghoughi
February 26, 2024
Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Grip Gears:
Alex Megos on ‘Sleeping Lion’ 5.15b/9b
Wrist Strengthening:
Pronated Bicep Curl (flex wrist toward bicep)
Promoting Finger Health:
Films:
Paul’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:28 – Topics covered
00:04:01 – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
00:08:08 – Plans for the Olympics
00:08:44 – Lumbrical injuries
00:16:21 – Stress shielding
00:18:24 – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
00:24:56 – Preventing lumbrical injuries
00:26:25 – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
00:29:19 – How to introduce a new grip position
00:34:13 – Training with hypermobile fingers
00:39:05 – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
00:41:33 – Wrist strengthening exercises
00:48:35 – Synovitis and capsulitis
00:55:39 – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
00:59:25 – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
01:03:06 – Why stretching your fingers is important
01:06:31 – Blood work for stiff joints
01:07:35 – What is normal to expect as we age?
01:09:18 – Playing the long game
01:11:08 – Hiding the broccoli
01:12:53 – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
01:17:27 – Tennis Elbow
01:23:32 – My experience with Golfers Elbow
01:25:57 – End-of-range contractions
01:27:45 – Preventing elbow injuries
01:29:31 – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
01:33:55 – Elbow joint issues
01:35:14 – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
01:36:14 – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
01:40:14 – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!