EP 207: Paul Houghoughi

February 26, 2024

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Check out other episodes with Paul:

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  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

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Show Notes:

Related Podcast Episodes:

EP 153: Ollie Torr

EP 143: Matt Heyliger

EP 122: Jared Vagy

EP 119: Carrie Cooper

EP 67: Heth Jennings

EP 05: Mark DeJohn

Grip Gears:

Alex Megos on ‘Sleeping Lion’ 5.15b/9b


Wrist Strengthening:

Pronated Bicep Curl (flex wrist toward bicep)

Hammer Curls

Power Balls

Rolling Thunder


Promoting Finger Health:

Finnish Ball Trainer


Films:

You Can Go Now



Paul’s Links:

Instagram


Nuggets:

00:00:00 – Intro

00:02:28 – Topics covered

00:04:01 – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

00:08:08 – Plans for the Olympics

00:08:44 – Lumbrical injuries

00:16:21 – Stress shielding

00:18:24 – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

00:24:56 – Preventing lumbrical injuries

00:26:25 – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

00:29:19 – How to introduce a new grip position

00:34:13 – Training with hypermobile fingers

00:39:05 – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

00:41:33 – Wrist strengthening exercises

00:48:35 – Synovitis and capsulitis

00:55:39 – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

00:59:25 – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

01:03:06 – Why stretching your fingers is important

01:06:31 – Blood work for stiff joints

01:07:35 – What is normal to expect as we age?

01:09:18 – Playing the long game

01:11:08 – Hiding the broccoli

01:12:53 – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

01:17:27 – Tennis Elbow

01:23:32 – My experience with Golfers Elbow

01:25:57 – End-of-range contractions

01:27:45 – Preventing elbow injuries

01:29:31 – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

01:33:55 – Elbow joint issues

01:35:14 – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

01:36:14 – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

01:40:14 – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

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EP 208: Jesse Grupper

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EP 206: Charlie Schreiber Returns