EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Returns
Jun 3, 2024
Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention.
We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in our first episode.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out other episodes with Paul:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (Feb 26, 2024)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Lifting Straps:
Other References:
Neck bridging (David Mason’s post)
Paul’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:10 – Life update from Steven
00:11:07 – OQS banter
00:13:34 – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)
00:18:48 – Wrist widgets
00:23:33 – TFCC pain & injury prevention
00:27:41 – Knee exercises for heel hooks
00:32:44 – Lifting straps for hamstring training
00:35:33 – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip
00:39:20 – Clarifying questions
00:43:50 – Protocols for hamstring work
00:48:52 – Nordic curls
00:51:52 – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries
00:54:51 – Sumo deadlift
00:55:51 – How to train for tweaky heel hooks
00:58:11 – Recap of hamstring rehab
00:59:01 – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads
01:08:11 – Stop firefighting
01:10:14 – How to release tight neck muscles
01:12:38 – Daily joint mobilization
01:15:15 – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas
01:22:05 – Shoulder injuries
01:27:11 – How to build bulletproof shoulders
01:31:01 – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells
01:36:03 – Doing things for a specific reason
01:41:17 – Having a meaningful goal
01:43:01 – Good pain vs. bad pain
01:48:46 – Patterns in aging climbers
01:53:20 – Good climbers vs. Olympians
01:55:59 – Coach & clinician symbiosis
01:58:45 – The booty thrust
02:02:11 – Tips for aspiring Physios
02:06:52 – How Paul maintains an 8A level
02:11:01 – What’s next for Paul
02:13:02 – EXTRA teaser for Patrons