EP 99: Q&A 4
Dec 13, 2021
In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice.
*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.
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Website Links Mentioned:
Show Notes:
My Climbing / Training / Goals: (Timestamps below)
Oskar’s Question:
My favorite rechargeable lights
My favorite rechargeable batteries (get AAA for headlamps)
Taylor’s Questions:
EP 70: Steve Maisch (last year’s Hueco training program in show notes)
Video of Martini Right V12 (not me, just found this on the internet)
Casey’s Questions:
Jimmy’s Question:
EP 35: Steve Bechtel (his Follow-Ups are linked on this page)
Karl’s Question:
My send footage of Eternia V11
Getting really close on Eternia without the kneepad
My complete tick list (for reference)
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner
Tyler’s Questions:
My one-arm-one-leg pushup video
J-Star climbing ‘Spirit of the West’ 5.14a
Shanna’s Question:
Performance Climbing Coach (PCC)
Conor’s Question:
Luke’s Question:
Drew:
Me sending ‘The Practitioner’ V11
David:
Video of Keenan rampaging in Leavenworth (this is basically my list)
Nutrition / Weight Gain: (Timestamps below)
Karl’s Question:
Angelo’s Question:
Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life: (Timestamps below)
Tyler’s Question:
Luke’s Question:
The blackout curtains I bought
Tyler’s Question:
EP 03: William Woodward (Link to his Follow-Up is on this page)
Jordan’s Question:
Howard’s Question:
Liam’s Questions:
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (reverse interview with Ethan Pringle)
Jonathan’s Questions:
EP 81: Hazel Findlay (“Be with each move.”)
Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes: (Timestamps below)
Tyler’s Question:
Finn’s Question:
My Links:
Nuggets:
0:00 – Intro and updates
7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals:
7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?
14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?
16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?
17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?
18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?
21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?
22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall?
25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?
33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?
35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?
38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?
38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?
42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?
46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multipitch climbing?
49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?
51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?
53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?
54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?
58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?
1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?
1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?
1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?
1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:
1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?
1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my bodytype and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?
1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:
1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used?
1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?
1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?
1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?
1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?
1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?
1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?
1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?
1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences youo get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?
1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?
1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?
1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?
1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?
1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?
1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?
1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?
2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?
2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quiting your job, or say fuck it? Also what is your climbing story?
2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?
2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:
2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?
2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in?
2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?
2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?
2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?
2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multipitch climb?
2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:
2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers?
2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?
2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?
2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?
2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?
2:31:30 – Wrapup