EP 230: Emma Hunt
July 22, 2024
Photo by Dan Gajda
Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!
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Show Notes:
More Olympian Episodes:
Emma’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:50 – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed
00:04:08 – “I just wanna go fast.”
00:06:48 – Keeping the fire lit
00:09:28 – Beta changes
00:12:08 – The Start, Dyno, and Top
00:13:10 – Speed nerds
00:16:19 – A rock climber first
00:18:10 – Post-Olympic plans
00:20:41 – How strong are speed climbers?
00:23:25 – How speed climbers train
00:28:42 – Training sections of the speed route
00:30:14 – Off-the-wall training
00:31:56 – Her coaches
00:35:06 – Speed shoes
00:44:59 – Other sports
00:46:27 – Rock climbing as a kid
00:48:27 – What makes Emma so good at speed
00:49:58 – Pre-race rituals
00:51:36 – Speed mental game
00:56:37 – Olympic vs. World Cup format
00:59:06 – Seeds & sides
01:00:39 – Strategy
01:05:01 – Riding waves
01:11:28 – More about the Olympic format
01:13:18 – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format
01:27:51 – Future Bouldering & Lead comps
01:29:20 – Speed climbing in the mainstream
01:35:22 – We celebrate gold
01:40:39 – Barriers to speed
01:42:30 – Emma’s fastest time & goals
01:44:49 – Will the speed route ever change?
01:51:56 – 50-year-old goals
01:53:45 – Rapid fire questions
02:07:51 – Speed is cool