EP 236: Fundamentals S2 Part 2
September 2, 2024
Photo by Elli Doran
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out more Fundamentals episodes!
Jesse’s Other Episodes:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone (Jul 18, 2022)
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns (Oct 23, 2024)
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Show Notes:
Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)
Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting
Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall
Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money
Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement
Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)
Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level
Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)
Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them
Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons
Tip #3: Circuits!
Tip #4: Set foot moves (not just feet follow hands)
Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression
Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions
Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions
Pitfall #3: Only having big blobby foot holds (or only small foot holds… have a mix!)
Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (listen for tips on building a cool home wall on a budget)
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board
Spray Wall Apps:
Stokt
Eat Spray Love
Retro Flash
Crimpd App (for session format ideas)
References:
Wedge - Aidan Roberts and Dan Varian on Dan’s spray wall
Jesse climbing Float Like a G.O.A.T. (one of my boulders on the TB2 Mirror)
Jesse’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:20 – Best spray walls
00:05:46 – Terrain drives technique
00:08:00 – Choosing a wall angle
00:10:07 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)
00:13:05 – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them
00:17:45 – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement
00:19:12 – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression
00:24:52 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting
00:27:59 – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons
00:28:57 – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)
00:33:17 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall
00:35:52 – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!
00:40:13 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money
00:43:27 – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves
00:49:23 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions
00:52:08 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level
00:54:33 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions
00:55:51 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)
00:57:40 – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes
00:59:42 – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds
01:02:03 – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)
01:07:32 – Quantum leaps