EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns
September 9, 2024
Photo by NCP man
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Other episodes with Yves:
EP 117: Yves Gravelle (May 2, 2022)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Yves’ Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:59 – The 200 lb grip goal
00:07:31 – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking
00:11:28 – Limiting factors
00:12:15 – The Sport Audit
00:15:13 – Joint angles for edge lifting
00:19:19 – Specializing
00:20:36 – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength
00:21:18 – More on specialization
00:22:51 – Forearm hypertrophy exercises
00:24:58 – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isomentrics
00:30:33 – Grip positions for different goals
00:36:07 – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training
00:38:29 – How to build a 3-month grip training program
00:45:56 – Yves’ edge lifting protocols
00:53:35 – When to progress weight
00:54:50 – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test
00:56:20 – When to change your training schedule
00:58:23 – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)
01:00:08 – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains
01:04:27 – Lazy athletes get strong
01:05:29 – Repeaters
01:07:44 – Changing your schedule or program
01:10:48 – My takeaways so far
01:12:02 – How to combine board sessions with finger training
01:20:04 – Training for a 23-move boulder
01:22:44 – Pacing & efficiency
01:25:37 – Summary of my example training plan
01:35:12 – More about repeaters
01:40:46 – How to maintain finger strength in season
01:48:05 – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals
01:55:22 – Yves’ gap analysis for comps
01:57:15 – Planning & process goals
01:59:05 – Yves’ job as a special effects artist
02:01:06 – Yves’ YouTube channel
02:01:54 – Climbers getting into grip sports
02:02:47 – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip
02:05:45 – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons