Episodes Feed

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns
Top Training, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt Top Training, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Read More
EP 215: Nathan Williams
Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt Top Bouldering, Top Dark Horses Steven Dimmitt

EP 215: Nathan Williams

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

Read More
EP 89: Q&A 3
Q&A, Strength Training, Training Steven Dimmitt Q&A, Strength Training, Training Steven Dimmitt

EP 89: Q&A 3

In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more.

Read More
EP 76: Q&A 2
Mindset, Q&A, Strength Training, Training, Nutrition, Goals Steven Dimmitt Mindset, Q&A, Strength Training, Training, Nutrition, Goals Steven Dimmitt

EP 76: Q&A 2

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.

Read More
EP 62: Q&A 1
Mindset, Q&A, Strength Training, Training, Nutrition Steven Dimmitt Mindset, Q&A, Strength Training, Training, Nutrition Steven Dimmitt

EP 62: Q&A 1

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.

Read More
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2)

EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2)

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.

Read More