EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2)
December 14, 2020
Photo by Bree Robles
This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts
Listen to Part 1 here.
Check out other episodes with AJ:
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson (May 27, 2021)
Patreon:
Follow-Ups:
thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups
Athletic Brewing:
Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers
Products Mentioned:
Power Strips (Pair) - Tension Climbing
Training Resources:
Camp 4 Human Performance (C4HP) Website
Dr. Tyler Nelson/C4HP on Instagram
Routes/Boulders Mentioned:
‘The Muffler’ V12, LCC, UT
‘Dead Souls’ 5.14a, American Fork, UT
Other Instagram Links:
Alex’s Links:
Nuggets:
1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a
5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)
12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”
16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session
20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)
21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session
25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength
28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge
33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’
34:30 – Highballs
37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in”
42:07 – Outro