EP 243: Fundamentals S2 Part 5
October 14, 2024
Photo by Ryan Westby
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out more Fundamentals episodes!
Jesse’s Other Episodes:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone (Jul 18, 2022)
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns (Oct 23, 2024)
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Show Notes:
Jesse’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible
Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future
Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume
Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing
Tip #4: Protect your identity
Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.
Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity
Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)
Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)
Steven’s Tips and Pitfalls:
Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok
Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up
Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)
Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to
Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly
Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury
Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Returns
References:
Kettlebell Simple & Sinister by Pavel Tsatsouline
Jesse’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:00:19 – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from
00:05:02 – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury
00:09:19 – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible
00:11:07 – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future
00:14:23 – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok
00:16:04 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume
00:19:07 – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up
00:27:08 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing
00:31:19 – My best onsight season ever
00:35:07 – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)
00:38:41 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity
00:43:16 – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to
00:46:59 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity
00:52:40 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly
00:57:28 – More finger rehab tips
00:58:53 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)
01:07:18 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury
01:09:54 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)
01:14:13 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process
01:15:27 – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.
01:15:42 – Wrap up