EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns
August 18, 2026
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and training volume change with size, mindset shifts for both tall and short climbers, why climbing is inherently unfair, practical tips, and much more.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out other episodes with Justen:
EP 226: Justen Sjong (June 24, 2024)
Free Masterclass
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Climb Accelerator
⬇️ Direct Link to My Online Course
masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator
Show Notes:
Justen’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:48 – Gardening
00:04:04 – The Red
00:08:17 – Introducing our topic
00:12:34 – Shaming
00:18:17 – Challenges for tall climbers
00:23:46 – Injuries & training volume
00:28:39 – Momentum
00:37:55 – Foot strength & stiff shoes
00:51:26 – Finding your own beta
00:57:58 – Maximizing your reach
00:59:56 – Grades
01:10:43 – Finding the best beta
01:15:36 – Fairness
01:18:07 – One-foot drill
01:21:04 – Expressing challenges
01:22:50 – Grizzly bear
01:24:42 – Mindset shifts for short climbers
01:31:02 – Seeking street credit
01:37:33 – Unclassic climbs
01:38:23 – More tips for short climbers
01:42:26 – Chunking down moves
01:48:35 – Should short & tall climbers train differently?
01:51:04 – Body types
01:55:52 – Who do you want to be?
02:01:09 – Can’t vs. yet
02:02:11 – Justen’s climbing update
02:08:40 – Wrap up