Follow-Up Teasers
October 16, 2024
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)
Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more.
*Full version is 1:17:15
October 12, 2023
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification
Martin Keller is back on the podcast! We met up in Magic Wood over the summer and recorded another great conversation. We talked about his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, why you shouldn’t spend 50+ days on a project as he does, gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder, his simple training routine, how he is still getting stronger at 45, and Martin gave me feedback and advice on my climbing.
*Full version is 1:54:13
September 21, 2023
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist
Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you’ve been living under a rock (or haven’t been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!
*Full version is 1:40:34
July 27, 2023
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A
Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!
*Full version is 2:49:54
July 15, 2023
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40
Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!
*Full version is 2:13:42
June 19, 2023
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks
Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.
*Full version is 1:11:03
May 18, 2023
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know
The active recovery episode! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it’s better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.
*Full version is 1:30:02
April 20, 2023
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves
This week's follow-up is with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!
*Full version is 1:12:49
April 7, 2023
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training
Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands. You can find Matt at mattheyliger.com
*Full version is 1:31:47
March 23, 2023
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects
Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!
*Full version is 2:06:03
February 22, 2023
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48
Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!
*Full version is 1:24:37
February 2, 2023
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A
Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!
*Full version is 2:53:31
January 19, 2023
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower
Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!
*Full version is 2:03:04
January 4, 2023
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension
Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more.
*Full version is 1:34:15
November 28, 2022
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite
This week's follow-up is with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.
*Full version is 1:25:59
September 29, 2022
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains
I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!
*Full version is 1:03:39
August 31, 2022
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades
This week's follow-up is with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending ‘Event Horizon’ 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.
*Full version is 1:32:46
August 5, 2022
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World
This week's follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more.
*Full version is 1:04:24
July 21, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard
This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!
*Full version is 1:27:13
July 7, 2022
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice
This week's follow-up call is with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more.
*Full version is 1:02:56
June 16, 2022
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money
This week's follow-up is with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.
*Full version is 2:14:38
May 9, 2022
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe
This week’s follow-up is with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe.
*Full version is 1:21:47
April 21, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief
This is my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year.
*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode, as well as my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode.
*Full version is 1:41:46
March 29, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing
This week's follow-up is with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through a plateau on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England.
*Full version is 1:40:26
March 11, 2022
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap
This week's follow-up call is with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs.
*Full version is 44:56
February 17, 2022
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro
This week's follow-up is with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more.
This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don’t skip this episode if you are interested in training.
*Full version is 1:44:52
January 28, 2022
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy
This week's follow-up call is with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters.
*Full version is 1:16:59
January 7, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2
This is my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco.
*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.
*Full version is 1:40:55
December 16, 2021
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate
This week's follow-up call is with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.
*Full version is 1:03:25
December 10, 2021
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple
This week's follow-up call is with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.
*Full version is 1:33:49
November 11, 2021
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47
This is my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance.
*Full version is 1:38:35
October 28, 2021
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body
This is my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals.
*Full version is 1:16:25
September 30, 2021
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements
This week's follow-up call is with Allison Vest. We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson, rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more.
*Full version is 53:16
September 9, 2021
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises
This week's follow-up call is with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode.
*Full version is 2:45:31
August 28, 2021
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond
This week's follow-up call is with Nathan Hadley. We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send.
*Full version is 1:03:36
August 12, 2021
Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard.
This week's follow-up call is with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15.
*Full version is 48:46
July 29, 2021
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed
This week's follow-up call is with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.
*Full version is 1:47:11.
July 7, 2021
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap
This week's follow-up call is with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese.
*Full version is 50:27.
June 24, 2021
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes
This week's follow-up call is with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next.
*Full version is 1:34:55.
June 10, 2021
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s
This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge.
*Full version is 44:54.
May 27, 2021
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm
This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated.
*Full version is 43:03
May 13, 2021
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers
This week's follow-up call is with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness, and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers.
*Full version is 1:23:45
April 29, 2021
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered
In this Follow-Up, I asked Mercedes Pollmeier for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled Patron questions about individual bony morphology, improving the back bridge, when and how to stretch the hamstrings, whether it is ever too late to begin training flexibility, and Mercedes made a case for why flexibility training is as important as strength training for athletes.
*Full version is 1:20:32
April 15, 2021
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys
In this Follow-Up, I talk with Jon Glassberg about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more.
* Full version is 1:00:21
Apr 1, 2021
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position”
In this Follow-Up, I asked for your questions for Natasha on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet.
*Full version is 2:06:41
Mar 18, 2021
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders
In this Follow-Up, we talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses.
*Full version is 47:14
Mar 4, 2021
Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes
In this Follow-Up, we talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings.
*Full version is 36:17
Feb 18, 2021
Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’
In this Follow-Up, we talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in and out of training phases, embracing curiosity to overcome fear, and reflecting on lessons learned.
*Full version is 33:57
Feb 4, 2021
Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing
In this Follow-Up, we talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks.
*Full version is 30:04
Jan 21, 2021
Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the “Three Good Tries” Rule
In this Follow-Up, we talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three Good Tries" rule, building skills vs. habits, three things to consider when choosing a training program, the value and limitations of training assessments, and why we shouldn’t necessarily depend on scientific research to tell us what to do.
*Full version is 1:24:10
Jan 7, 2021
Lizzy VanPatten — ‘Make Me Sanguine’
In this Follow-Up, we talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some of Oregon’s finest columnar basalt. This was also Lizzy's first 5.13. We talked about the process of projecting the route, about the meaning behind the name, and about breaking down the arbitrary limits we create for ourselves.
*Full version is 1:03:33
Dec 10, 2020
Jasna Hodzic — Projecting 101 (...More like 401)
In this Follow-Up, we talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned from reflecting on ‘Voodoo’ 14b, and her considerations when choosing a new goal. We also talked about navigating climbing partnerships, and how to be honest upfront to avoid issues later.
*Full version is 1:03:04
Nov 26, 2020
Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths
In this Follow-Up, we talked about Brittany’s season in Vedauwoo and some of the top offwidth climbing techniques she learned, about onsighting her first 5.13 trad route in Indian Creek, about how she approaches gear selection and placement for hard splitter projects and onsight attempts, and about her growing finger sizes.
*Full version is 30:50
Nov 12, 2020
Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project
In this Follow-Up, we talked about chasing weather in New England, about Jaws II, about the FA of ‘Nu World’ 5.15a/b, about the ‘Event Horizon’ project (the direct finish to ‘Nu World’), and about some of the strategies and tactics Jonathan uses when returning for a new round of attempts on a multi-season project.
*Full version is 26:42
Oct 29, 2020
Drew Ruana — Recent V16s
In this Follow-Up, we talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', as well his process projecting 'The Grand Illusion', and plans for summer training.
*Full version is 18:34
Oct 15, 2020
Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves
In this Follow-Up, we talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s potential projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep.
*Full version is 51:13