EP 228: Josh Hadley
July 8, 2024
Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier (Flexibility)
EP 216: Maddy Cope (Lattice Training)
EP 153: Ollie Torr (Lattice Training)
EP 74: Tom Randall (Lattice Training)
CARCing:
Stovall Products F990 MAX Gripper (the gripper I’m using)
Critical Force Video:
Stefano Ghisolfi Broke Our Test!
Flexibility Videos:
Flexibility Routine for Climbing ft. Aidan Roberts
3 EASY Stretches for INFLEXIBLE Climbers
Other Resources:
Pavel Tsatsouline on Tim Ferriss
Stretching Scientifically by Thomas Kurz
Flex Master Discount:
Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle
https://latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-tools/
Josh’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:59 – CARCing
00:10:38 – Unstructured training
00:12:13 – How Josh became the flexibility guy
00:17:47 – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice
00:25:25 – Flexibility assessments
00:32:14 – Abduction
00:32:44 – Buy in for flexibility training
00:41:47 – How often do you need to train flexibility
00:44:19 – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)
00:47:57 – Weighted & PNF stretching
00:53:36 – Josh’s flexibility progress
00:59:40 – Morphology limitations
01:03:11 – Standing Pancake
01:08:56 – Chasing horizontal
01:13:43 – Tasking & motivation
01:16:40 – Pancake stance width
01:18:11 – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching
01:24:51 – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?
01:27:40 – Pancake protocol
01:30:06 – How Josh builds a flexibility session
01:34:11 – Mobility vs. flexibility
01:39:58 – Calve stretching
01:46:01 – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers
01:52:24 – Reducing friction
01:55:00 – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing
01:56:57 – PNF or contract-relax stretching
02:00:57 – Best times to stretch
02:04:41 – Breathing
02:07:14 – When to switch to maintenance
02:11:40 – What running does to your flexibility
02:12:54 – Josh’s climbing & BJJ
02:19:17 – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing
02:22:07 – Josh’s final advice
02:25:32 – YouTube experimenting
02:27:49 – Wrap up