EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns
January 20, 2025
Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about whether two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.
Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!
Check out other episodes with Stian:
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten (Aug 7, 2022)
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger (Pulley Rehab Series)
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Returns
References:
No One Mourns the Wicked V17 FA by Nathaniel Coleman
Soudain Seul 9A/V17 FA by Simon Lorenzi
Buy Stian’s New Book:
The Climbing Bible: Managing Injuries (Adventure Books)
The Climbing Bible: Managing Injuries (Amazon)
Stian’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:02:09 – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious
00:07:40 – Practicing board climbing
00:11:55 – Outline of topics
00:15:18 – Most common climbing injuries
00:18:13 – Rules for preventing injuries
00:20:39 – How much hard climbing is reasonable
00:29:13 – Lifting weights
00:31:04 – The Japanese approach
00:43:43 – Finger training to prevent finger injuries
00:52:05 – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?
00:56:01 – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries
00:59:25 – When to do extra strength training
01:01:47 – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity
01:06:45 – Regaining confidence after injury
01:09:45 – Optimism & discovery
01:20:42 – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?
01:25:52 – How to rehab pulley injuries
01:35:14 – Loading & adapting from within
01:43:50 – The good news with pulley injuries
01:45:59 – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?
01:48:20 – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury
01:51:20 – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing
01:53:59 – Preparing for tweaky holds
02:01:08 – Individual finger training
02:05:57 – Training for hard shoulder moves
02:07:20 – Growth plate injuries
02:10:58 – Injections for finger pain
02:13:20 – Mindset tips
02:16:06 – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent
02:20:49 – Where to buy Stian’s new book